So although my Tumblr stream has been fairly consistent lately, I still feel like I’ve been neglecting Tumblr a little bit. But there is reason for that! I’ve been working on a new film-based photography website called Pdexposures.tv; while it started (and still mostly is) a space for Nate Matos’ Portland, Oregon based photography show (think Digital Rev, but in America and without the “Digital” bit), we have a fortnightly podcast of which I am one of the hosts.

There is, of course, also a flickr group for additional discussion about the shows - both the video one and the podcast.

Please, go check it out. If you like film, you’ve got some time to kill and you don’t mind listening to a Brit swearing at two Yanks, it should be right up your street.

SILLY DOG PHOTO TIMEFed 2, Industar 22, HP5+, LC29.


Fed 2, Industar 22, HP5+, LC29.

Funny dudes were funny.
Pentax MX, SMC 50/1.7, HP5. LC29 dev.

Funny dudes were funny.

Pentax MX, SMC 50/1.7, HP5. LC29 dev.

Well, whatdya know? I found an SLR I don’t totally hate.
But it’s still no rangefinder.Pentax MX, SMC Pentax-M 35/2.8, HP5+ developed in LC29.

Well, whatdya know? I found an SLR I don’t totally hate.

But it’s still no rangefinder.

Pentax MX, SMC Pentax-M 35/2.8, HP5+ developed in LC29.

A rough and ready test shooting between my tried-and-tested Jupiter 8 and a new (to me) Jupiter 3. The top photo is the Jupiter 3, the bottom being Jupiter 8. The yellow-green filter was, in hindsight, a mistake; I only used it to bring the exposure to f2 and 1/500, but it has darkened the shadows on the blue-ish statue more than I would have liked. Also, both photos were taken from the same position, despite appearances; the Jupiter 8 shot was crooked, and my straightening has forced it into a tighter crop.

Despite this, a few things can be seen. This particular Jupiter 3 appears to transmit slightly more light than the Jupiter 8 at equivalent stops, something which I’ve seen on a couple of other (even more boring) tests, and it actually seems to be sharper at f2 than the Jupiter 8, despite what I had been led to believe; some members of Rangefinderforum suggest the performance is equal across the board, with the two lenses being basically indistinguishable.

But then my J8 is covered in “cleaning marks”, and the J3 is nigh-pristine, so make of that what you may.

Also, the bokeh on the J3 seems slightly less busy than the J8, and considerably more pleasing, so I’m quite happy with my ridiculously expensive purchase; I can’t wait to see what it can do in proper situations.

Thoughts on the Leningrad.

So my Leningrad finally arrived, and while it has slight (hopefully fixable) flaws in the form of a missing RF calibration screw and slow speeds all running at the same speed, it’s otherwise functional. And so I’ve been sat around for the last few hours considering its existence; you don’t see much written about it, so I thought I’d perhaps share my experiences.

GOMZ Leningrad (1958)

(NOT my photo. I don’t have a digital camera, hence the lack of images in this big wall of text that follows)

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This is the first time I’ve ever developed a “found film”. It was a head-scratchingly perplexing task; trying to work out how best to develop a film with no exposure details or hints of age is not something I particularly enjoy doing.

The results weren’t bad, though. Lots of background fog but usable images. Better than the shots I took to finish the roll, anyway. Should have factored in the lack of sensitivity.

Anyone recognise the town in the photos? It’s obviously British, but I have no idea where.

Ensign Selfix 1620, Verichrome Pan, Rodinal 1:50 for 9mins at 22ºC.

Pentacon Six!

So, I took out the bargain Pentacon Six setup out for a walk today - and instantly discovered that’s not what you do with a Pentacon Six. It is not a casual walking camera. And you certainly don’t hump it up a huge hill to get to a derelict pottery works; between the three-lens set (Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 120/2.8 and ausJena 80/2.8), the body itself and the HUGE tripod I’d dug out to support it, it was quite the workout.

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Today’s lesson: the difference between Scangear and MP Navigator for scanning film with a Canoscan flatbed.

I’ve always hated my colour negative scans. Now I think I know why, although I obviously have some way to go before I get decent ones. But if anyone has any tips on using Scangear efficiently, I’d really like to hear them. I can’t even figure out how to batch scan properly. This UI is TERRIBLE.

Events at 4am.

- Have shower
- Ponder why recent rolls of film have looked murky
- Dig through negative folder to compare successful film from summer with today’s bad film
- Notice successful film has clear edges, today’s does not
- Compare recent and old samples from same 100ft roll
- Realise why reusing the same 500ml of fixer for 3+ months is a bad idea.

Guess I’ll be mixing a new batch tomorrow, then.